Monday, May 31, 2021

Fayette County, West Virginia and Floyd County, Virginia

 I've been visiting one county per month since we moved to Morgantown in July, 2012, with an interruption from March 2020 until now. I was behind even then, so I need to hit twenty-eight counties in the next fourteen months. I know this sounds obsessive, but bear with me. I figured if I did the county that was due this month (I have a list through June 2022) and the county closest to it, I could be everywhere by next June. 

I left Wednesday, the 26th and came back Friday, spending Wednesday night in Fayetteville, West Virginia and Thursday night in Floyd, Virginia. I took masks with me, but generally didn't wear them. 

It's 147 miles south from Morgantown to Fayetteville, and another 138 miles southeast to Floyd, Virginia.

I'm imagining the Universe was sending me a message, as usual, mixed. I enjoyed being off on my own, exploring new places,. Neither town is that big a deal, but there is plentiful gorgeous scenery nearby. New River Gorge in Fayette County is now a National Park, and Blue Ridge Parkway runs through Floyd County. So maybe the Universe said "Get back on the road." 

But coming back, I was not feeling so hot digestively, and I missed the turnoff north of Beckley to U.S. 19, leaving me on the West Virginia Turnpike ($12 in tolls) through Charleston, adding a half-hour to my trip and  about thirty miles. Not a big deal, except for the accident south of Charleston that blocked traffic for an hour and a half. My plan was to get home by four, nap for an hour, cook dinner and go with Joe to services at 7:30. Instead, I got home at six, exhausted and bedraggled, having only eaten a cereal bar at 4 P.M. for lunch, with bottled iced tea, which I hoped would remove my headache. It helped. Joe suggested I should have used the machine we have that tells you where to turn. There was construction on the Turnpike, and while the exits were open, the signs telling you where the exit led were down. Also it poured down rain all the way through West Virginia. 

I felt good Saturday, but Sunday, I had a low fever and no energy. Mister Worst-Case Scenario, as Joe calls me, imagines I caught COVID, despite my fully vaccinated status, because the unmasked people in these rural counties, including children, could have passed me a variant. Or perhaps, hiking in the woods along Blue Ridge Parkway in shorts and a polo shirt, a tick bit me and now I'll have Lyme disease. The Universe says "watch out." 

I met some fun people in Fayetteville, "The Coolest Little Town" and I ate at Tudor's Biscuit World, a staple of West Virginia chain restaurants, for the first time. Late afternoon Wednesday, I visited New River Gorge National Park, newly designated. I walked the 128 steps to the place where you can see the bridge best. Three young people joined me, a talkative girl, who said she was a WVU student here in Morgantown, and two taciturn men with her, both smoking cigarettes, despite "No Smoking" signs posted all over the park. 

Oak Hill is the larger town in Fayette County, so I cruised through there in the evening, while it was still light. Parts of it are pretty suburban/country, but the main part of town looks like it has seen better days. I found the "mall" on U.S. 19, a long strip of stores, half of them closed, including the Shoney's, where I thought I might get dinner. I went into a Kroger store and bought a small yogurt, a single serving of Cheerios and an orange, and had those for dinner back in the room. 

I had breakfast in the motel Thursday, and took off for Floyd, Virginia, over the mountains, about forty miles south of Roanoke. I arrived close to noon and ate a chicken sandwich, my first chicken since Passover, in a pharmacy/lunchroom on the main drag, U.S. 221. I walked around a bit, checking out the obligatory monument to Confederate soldiers in front of the court house. The cross street, State Road 8, hosts some tourist shops, including a record and CD shop, much to my surprise. The owner stocks country, bluegrass and hillbilly music, much of it from that area and going back to historic recordings of the 1920s.  I was determined to find something, and bought a Bela Fleck album, where he worked with African musicians, and an acoustic Jerry Garcia album. I stopped in the tourist place, where the woman working there piled me up with brochures. I picked out a hiking spot she suggested on the Blue Ridge Parkway. There were one, three and ten mile marked hikes from there. I started on the three-mile hike, but soon realized one mile might be enough. It was. I was exhausted, and crawled back to Hotel Floyd, where there was a 4:00 check-in time. It was just after four. I napped for at least an hour.

It seemed most of the town was closed down until the weekend, when there were music venues opening up and a tourist scene, some of it, I gathered, for the first time since the pandemic began. There is a walkway from the back of the hotel to the main part of Route 8. A small farmers' market was going on, and I bought a cinnamon roll and took it back to the room for later. Starting out again, I saw a little shopping center with a storefront Democratic Party office. Floyd County votes nearly two-thirds Republican, so I wanted to see what a Democratic Party person would have to say.  I encountered 87 year old Jane Griffith, reading a thousand page biography of Robert Moses by Robert Caro from 1974. We talked for nearly an hour. She spent most of her adult life in Port Townsend, Washington. Joe has a cousin who lives there, but we have not been. Her husband was an Episcopal priest. When he died, her son, who runs a gallery in Floyd, asked her to move there. She had high hopes for Tara Orlando, who is running for Delegate in the Democratic primary. 

I left her at seven for Dogtown, a bar/ restaurant serving mostly pizza and beer. It was mobbed, but I waited patiently at the counter, and ordered a salad, a pizza and a Diet Coke. I sat outside in the beautiful evening weather, not too hot nor too humid. There were groups of young hipsters out, drinking beer, all of them smoking. There were some children out, too, with parents and dogs. The balcony where I sat overlooks a city park. The salad had grapes and goat cheese. It was enough for dinner, but I ate half the pizza and took the rest to my room where there was a refrigerator. In the room I ate the delicious, but disgustingly fat and sugary cinnamon bun from earlier. I got to sleep about 10:30.

I had fun. I loved being in a different place from home, different scenery, different people. I don't mind driving, and I had CDs I brought with me and the two new ones. Even the trip back, for all the grief I had, was a route I had not taken before. I guess the message from the Universe is to continue traveling, just remember your age, eat better, and take it easy.

Here are the pics:

Fayetteville Historic District

Fayette County Courthouse

Altamont Hotel, 1898, looks abandoned

E.B. Hawkins House, 1908

New River Gorge Bridge, n. of Fayetteville

New River Gorge, now in a National Park

Selfie at New River Gorge

The steps to the viewing platform for the bridge. The sign at the top says "You have a choice to go down , but no choice to walk up."

Former Esso station, now a restaurant

Soldiers and Sailors Memorial Building   




 

Former Oak Hill High School, now a community center

Floyd County Courthouse, with the obligatory Confederate monument

Inscription on the Confederate monument

Floyd Presbyterian Church, 1850

Downtown Floyd Historic District

View from Blue Ridge Parkway in Floyd County

Unusual growth from a tree 
Blooming tree near Blue Ridge Parkway


Monday, May 24, 2021

The Pandemic Is Over ! (Maybe)/ "The Great Hits And Albums of 1970"

 We visited my sister Robin in Maryland for Passover, leaving here March 26, stopping in Kingwood, where my under-65 husband was able to get vaccinated against COVID-19 before he was eligible in our county. Kingwood is the seat of the county just to the east of us, on the border of Maryland, not far mileage-wise, but accessible only on narrow two-lane roads. We stopped for lunch near Hagerstown, more than halfway to my sister's place in Greenbelt, Prince George's County, expecting to eat at the noodle place in the parking lot of the mall. It was closed, so we ate Japanese food at a stand in the mall. I skipped my usual chicken. I've been off meat for most of the pandemic, because of news reports about executives at a chicken company taking bets on how many of their workers would get sick. I don't eat beef more than two or three times a year and have been off pork for several decades.

In Greenbelt, people were much more fastidious about masking and distancing than anywhere in West Virginia. The rule in the town is that you have to wear a mask anywhere out of your own house. Most people complied.

Joe ran Tree of Life's community seder from Robin's dining room, online . It went well, and people from all over were able to watch.  I ate chicken and some beef  at Robin's. Passover is a feast, and one should eat what one can, within the holiday guidelines.

We came back after a few days, and two weeks from the day we left Morgantown, we visited Morgantown Mall, in the city of Westover, south on U.S. 19 and across the Monongahela River. Joe headed for the last traditional department store (there were once four) to buy some clothes. I had  a list of CDs to  buy at the media store, but it was gone. I did buy new athletic shoes. We headed out to University Town Center, just north on I-79, in Granville, and stopped at a TV and media store where we had bought our computers. The young clerk scoffed when I said I needed a new portable cassette player and asked about buying CDs. The  "We millennials buy vinyl. We've found that vinyl sounds better," he said to the man who has been buying vinyl since 1955, probably before his grandfather was born. I knew that long ago, but it's hard to take vinyl in the car, and I  don't subscribe to streaming services. Our last stop was Target, where I found a cheap tape player, and a CD version of "McCartney III," the latest from Paul McCartney (I have a vinyl copy of the original "McCartney" from 1970, and "McCartney II," from 1980. I know this is a lot of blather, but it was our first "outing" in over a year.

We were invited to an outdoor lunch with a neighborhood gay couple and another friend of theirs, a widowed man who lives down the street from us. The weather was warm and we sat outside, maskless. That was in April.

Just this week, the weather turned warm, after a much cooler than expected early May, and the CDC announced that people who were "fully vaccinated" could be indoors or outdoors without masks. Many people were surprised and unsure that we could really do this. Cases are up in parts of the United States, roaring out of control in India, and in West Virginia, vaccinations have slowed due to reluctance on the part of many citizens. Our county's statistics are good, but variants have shown up among college students, who could only get vaccinated in the last few weeks. They are just starting to vaccinate people in the 12-16 age range.

Joe and I were doing Shabbat services from home for a year. I sang the candle blessing at the beginning and the wine blessing at the end, and a song if there was a new Jewish month coming up. A few weeks ago, the synagogue leaders decided we could do the service alone, without a congregation, at the synagogue building. A family asked to have a bar mitzvah at the temple, and asked me to be a guest. Most people were not masked, and at the reception at a hotel, where the rule was to wear masks unless eating, the rule was not followed, except by the staff and a few of us guest. I was a little put off, although I genuinely like this family, and I guess no one was hurt after all.

Friday, May 21, we opened the synagogue for services. It was still broadcast over the internet. Thirteen of us came. Others have said they were not ready. There were no refreshments after. The idea was to not have people stand around chit-chatting, but they did anyway, and, as the night was warm, people hung out later on the steps. I enjoyed seeing people face-to-face, even masked. Everyone was glad to get out. Friday afternoon, I had confronted a maskless shopper at our local supermarket, but the manager came over to our argument to tell me that the market's national office had told them that starting that day, they would not tell people to wear masks. I was upset that the supermarket chain did not care that the City of Morgantown, where I am on Council, had not rescinded its ordinance mandating masks. At home, I emailed the Mayor, Council and Manager to ask if there was a change. Apparently, I didn't get the memo (there was no memo) that the rules we set up expired Friday night. So I was right technically that people should have been masked Friday afternoon. I didn't need to get into an argument with someone over it, and today, Monday, I wrote to the manager and apologized for my behavior.

We were invited to dinner at the home of congregants Saturday and Sunday; unmasked and inside, three couples Saturday  evening, and four couples on a screened porch Sunday late afternoon. We also attended a memorial to people who had died of COVID-19 at a church near our house. We were all happy to see each other in person, almost shocked and gleeful.

So things seem to be  open, and masks are optional for those of us who are more than two weeks from our second shot. It's liberating and joyous, and a little scary. Are we really immune? What about variants? Will this immunity last? And I feel some guilt about American "privilege" when I see what's happening in India and other  places in the world. 

I just finished teaching an online class for Osher Life-Long Learning called "The Great Hits And Albums of 1970."  I put up at least twenty videos on YouTube each week to play in class. They are still there, if you want to look under my name. At first, I just went chronologically through a list of charted albums, from a book I have. We saw the breakup of The Beatles, with their last albums, and the first solo albums from  each of The Fab Four. I played one cut from each album. We spent time with Creedence  Clearwater Revival, the Jackson Five, Three Dog Night, old-timers like Engelbert Humperdinck and Tom Jones (not so old then) and comedy from David Frye ("I Am The President"). We had second albums from Crosby, Stills, Nash (and Young),  solo albums from Stills and Young and Santana. We saw The Supremes without Diana Ross, and Diana Ross without The Supremes. I played tunes from British groups Traffic, Jethro Tull, King Crimson and The Moody Blues. We heard from Grand Funk Railroad and Quicksilver Messenger Service. I spent a lot of time researching the bands and the music. It was exhausting.

On the other hand, this is exactly the kind of interpretive cultural history that I trained for, but never used in real life. People in the class, who are all over fifty, and mostly over sixty-five were, for the most part, enthralled, with memories of their young days and some new things to learn. It was perfect.

Sometime around week three, an article appeared in one of the Sunday magazines about the girl in the picture from Kent State, May 4, 1970, with her arms raised and apparently screaming, as she knelt over the body of a student shot dead by the Ohio National Guard. She was a fourteen-year old runaway at the time, and the writer caught up with her, retired in Florida. The horror of that time returned to my consciousness. I was a junior at Johns Hopkins that year, and we shut down  the campus weeks early after that event. President Nixon and many of  his followers felt it was a good thing that college students were murdered. At twenty, I couldn't yet vote, but I'm proud to say I've never voted for a Republican for any public office. I sold ice cream from a Good Humor truck in the summer of 1970, and spent most of  my senior year depressed, trying to figure out what my adult life would be. I had no idea. Those times came back to me this spring.

I was saddened to see what happened to so many of the stars I highlighted: eleven year old Michael Jackson, so brimming with potential, innocent twenty-year old Karen Carpenter, still living at home with her brother and parents when their hit "Close To You" came out. Jim Morrison and Jimi Hendrix, both gone in 1971, John Lennon murdered in 1980, Duane Allman and Berry Oakley of The Allman Brothers killed in motorcycle accidents, John Ham and Tom Evans of Badfinger who both committed suicide. 

For the last class, May 21, I had fallen far enough behind to have forty-one albums I could have highlighted. Some albums I picked were Led Zeppelin III, Derek and the Dominoes, Jesus Christ Superstar, Idewild South by The Allman Brothers and Judy Collins' Whales and Nightingales, where she sang "Amazing Grace." She said she was hoping that would stop the war in Vietnam. For the last four albums, I picked albums that didn't chart that I like. I had The Beach Boys sing "This Whole World" from Sunflower, The Five Stairsteps sing "O-o-h Child," about things would get easier, Laura Nyro's cover of the 1962 King-Goffin hit for The Drifters, "Up On The Roof" and I ended with the ten-minute Latin jazz piece "Just For You" by Sweetwater, a relatively forgotten group from Los Angeles. Sweetwater sang "See the change in the world, just for you." The world didn't really change for me in 1970, and generally I'm not sure things are much better than they were then. As usual, I can't complain about my own life, despite missteps and hardships along the way. Other than being old, which I should have anticipated, but didn't, I am relatively healthy, financially more solvent than ever and blessed with a mate who got me through these last frightening months.