Saturday, March 23, 2019

Purim 5779

I've been rereading this blog. I guess I'm my favorite writer. I noticed that my non-travel posts are about being depressed by the weather and the political scene here in West Virginia. When I saw a therapist at Kaiser-Permanente in Los Angeles about fifteen years ago, I glanced at the diagnosis sheet and it said "Depression-Chronic, Moderate." On the one hand, I don't have a lot to complain about, compared to people I know here whose parents beat them or were drug addicts, or they had no clothes or shoes for school. I didn't have any of that, and I live comfortably now, with love from my husband and my cat.

We are in spring now, but in Morgantown it's not really warm. Temperatures dropped below freezing last night and there was a snow shower as we left temple last night after services.

Wednesday night and Thursday, March 20 and 21 was the Jewish holiday of Purim, a time to celebrate the deliverance of the Jews of Persia. It's a Mardi Gras-like holiday, with costumes and alcohol. There are plays based on the Book of Esther, the Jewish queen of Persia. Esther becomes queen after winning a beauty contest held when the former queen, Vashti, refuses to dance for the drunken king and his friends. The story has changed since I was a child. Vashti used to be considered a bad person, but she's become a feminist hero now. Rabbi Joe, my husband and the rabbi at Tree of Life Congregation here in Morgantown, writes a parody of a Broadway musical every year for Purim. This year, it was "Man of LaMancha" reimagined as "Man of LaShushan," Shushan being the city where "Esther" takes place. In Vashti's song, the king "Looks like a pig and smells of beer."  Esther, who wins the beauty contest to become queen, the character all the little girls used to want to be, is reimagined in Joe's play. She sings (to the tune of "Aldonza") :

"Won't you look at me, look at me,
God, won't you look at me!
Hardly the nice Jewish girl you suppose!
Shrinking from lust
And in fear of starvation,
A child in a temptress's clothes!

If you feel that you see me not quite at my holiday best,
Read the part I don't mention, your scripture reveals all the rest!"

I'm sure this flew right past all the kids, and most of the adults. Definitely not the traditional interpretation of Esther's state of mind, but there is enough hatred and fear in the story to scare anyone. That's why it's usually read in Hebrew, so people won't understand it.

It didn't help that our Purim party at Tree of Life, the Saturday night before the actual holiday, was the day after the shootings at the two mosques in Christchurch, New Zealand. I didn't feel like celebrating a story where people are murdered. Or maybe it was a chance to see a modern version of the kind of hatred expressed in Esther, and to find a way to triumph over it.

I was touched by the response to the shooting in New Zealand. I saw videos of school kids performing  haka, a traditional Maori dance. I've learned that it's performed at rugby games, but all the kids know it, and stood by their Muslim friends and neighbors in solidarity. The Prime Minister, Jacinda Arderen, announced an immediate ban on the types of weapons used in the shooting, with apparently little or no political opposition.  I wish we could have a government like that here.

Purim is the yahrzeit, the anniversary, of my mother's death on the Jewish calendar. At Tree of Life, I say Kaddish, the memorial prayer, for her on the Friday before the holiday. I also like to go to Chabad, the Orthodox group in town, where they have a service on the holiday, and I can say the prayer. This year, however, the Muslim Students Association at West Virginia University held a vigil for Christchurch outdoors at the school on the evening of Purim, starting with a Muslim prayer service at sunset. A half dozen or so students spoke, all beautifully, as well as a couple from Tree of Life in Pittsburgh, expressing solidarity with the frightened Muslim students, and Imam Kip and Rabbi Joe. Two of us City Councilors and two State Delegates spoke briefly. The point that I tried to make when I spoke is that everyone in Morgantown is part of the city, whether one is from here or not, planning to stay, or leaving after graduation. We are one city. My inspiration was from the students in New Zealand.

Joe and I have talked about leaving here. His contract is up July 1, as is my City Council term. I wanted to run again. Our Council has done good work this last two years, and we finally have an all-progressive group of Delegates to the State Legislature. Many bad things happened in the Legislature this year, so much hatred expressed. Everyone says "This isn't who we are", but hateful people keep getting reelected, only, thankfully, not in Morgantown. Maybe that hatred is exactly representative of people in other parts of our state.

At the synagogue, many of the people who did the work of keeping things going have moved away for careers or just to a bigger city. The older people, not much older than I am, don't always have the energy to get things done. Many of them travel frequently or leave town for the winter months. I don't know how long this congregation can keep going, but they have supported Joe and me the last seven years. It's Joe they want to see from their hospital bed, Joe they want to do a funeral or a wedding for a family member.

Ryan Wallace, one of the Councilors I am closest to, announced last night that he and his wife Christine are moving to her hometown of Toronto this summer. This is a blow to me personally, because I have been close to them, but also to Morgantown generally. They are fitness buffs, and are responsible for our Health and Wellness Commission, started late last year.

It's common for West Virginia people to say "Should I stay or should I go?" I don't blame Ryan and Christine for leaving. They are young and have children, and Christine has parents in Toronto.We have made our community here, and I hope we will be able to stay.

At The vigil at WVU 3/20/19

Sunday, March 3, 2019

Columbiana County, Ohio

I had planned this county (my 81st) as a day trip. From the Monongalia County Court House in Morgantown to the Columbiana County Court House in Lisbon, is 106 miles. If it's over 100 miles, I think about staying over one night, but this was a county that voted 68% for the current president in 2016, and one of the bigger cities (Lisbon is designated a village) is closer to home. Columbiana County is the closest county to us in Ohio that has a larger population than our county, with more than 107,000 people. Just something I know.

My plan was to go Sunday, because Joe was busy most of the day, and I didn't have any place I had to be. I checked the weather, and snow was forecast all day Sunday (that happened) with temperatures into the week starting in the single digits. So, no, it had to be Saturday.

I left about 9:40 in our newer car. Google Maps takes one on the Interstate to Washington, PA, then off on PA-18, a two lane road through some small towns to U.S. 30, back into West Virginia's northern panhandle, then across the Ohio River. I visited two of the three cities in Columbiana, East Liverpool and Salem. It's 87 miles from our house to the bridge over the Ohio River from Chester, West Virginia's northernmost city, to East Liverpool, Ohio. It took me about two hours, with traffic backed up on PA-18 by a funeral going to a church and large trucks with strange-looking machinery used in fracking.

East Liverpool is a beautiful small historic city, situated on a bluff above the river. It was cloudy and windy, as it was most of the trip, with temperatures near Morgantown around 40, five degrees cooler at my destination. Not much was happening in East Liverpool. There were antique malls, where people sell off the relics of the twentieth century to try to make ends meet. I saw people going in to those. I had picked ten places in the county (of 42) to find from the National Register. Half of them were in East Liverpool, including a beautiful Carnegie Library, two historic districts, the former city hall, The Elks Club and Odd Fellows Hall. I walked to all of them. The Union for Reform Judaism showed a synagogue in town, with nine member families. I found the building, next to a hospital in what was once a swanky residential area. The building is empty and for sale.

I usually look for a mall, but found only two shopping centers, one near Salem and one outside East Liverpool. It was 1 P.M and I was hungry, so I visited the latter. I knew there was a Wal-Mart and a Penney's, so I figured there would be something to eat. There were a few other stores, selling shoes and jewelry and women's clothes, and three or four free-standing chain restaurants, but I ate at Subway, inside Wal-Mart. The store is huge, has a complete food section and everything you would want to buy, heavily discounted. I believe everyone in eastern Columbiana County was there. It's easy to blame the demise of small towns on Wal-Mart and other big box stores, but maybe the small-town downtown is not a feasible model today. Maybe they were drying up anyway, leaving an opening for big-box stores.

I moved on to Salem, way in the north end of the county, twenty-five miles from both Youngstown and Warren. Most of the route is on OH-11, what we Californians would call a "freeway," in much better shape than any road in West Virginia. State Street is the main commercial district in Salem, and on the National Register. It seems livelier than East Liverpool, with a larger, more occupied downtown. I also found the home of John Street, a leader of the abolitionists, and Waterworth Memorial Park, an urban park with a lake and a theater.

I wanted to be sure to see Lisbon, the county seat. Wikipedia says it was platted in 1803, only the second (European-American) city in Ohio. At 2800 or so people, it is much smaller than Salem or East Liverpool. It is on Little Beaver Creek, which flows into the Ohio River north of East Liverpool, in Pennsylvania. The center of Lisbon is a historic district. Many of the buildings look to be from early in the 19th century. I also found the Hanna-Kenty home, from 1838, remodeled in 1907, and apparently again more recently. Marcus Hanna was a U.S. Senator at the turn of the last century. I  headed out to the west from Lisbon, where I found Guilford Lake State Park and the 1832 Hostetter Inn.

I had planned to leave from Lisbon at 4:30 to be home by 6:35. I stayed a bit later. I was cold and suddenly hungry. I ducked into a Subway in a historic building in Lisbon, and treated myself to milk and cookies.

Coming home along PA-18 in Washington County, I was low on gas and also needed to pee. Two gas stations along the way had signs on the door of the attached convenience store saying "no public restroom." My car said I had enough gas to get home (but not much more). I relieved myself on the side of the road somewhere, then drove to Waynesburg, one county north of us in Pennsylvania, to get gas at Sheetz, a Pennsylvania-based chain that has gas, food, and (usually) clean restrooms. I arrived home close to 7. Joe and I had dinner out and were home by 8:30.
Patterson Memorial Building, 1924, now used by Kent State University's Liverpool Branch

Carnegie Library, East Liverpool, 1902

Alumni Tower on the site of the former East Liverpool High, overlooking the Ohio River. West Virginia is on the hill across the river

5th Street Historic district, East Liverpool

Downrown Historic District, East Liverpool

Elks Hall, East Liverpool, 1916

Synagogue, East Liverpool. The building is for sale.

The old bridge across the Ohio River to East Liverpool

Historic Houses, East Liverpool

Former City Hall, now the Health Department, East Liverpool, 1934

Odd Fellows Building, East Liverpool, now apartments, 1907

vacant commercial buildings, Market and 6th, East Liverpool

State St., Salem

South Broadway, Salem Historic District, now used by a church

John Street House,1838, Salem. Street was a Quaker and an abolitionist, the son of one of the founders of Salem
This was a stop on the Underground Railroad

Waterworth Park, Salem. 

Hostetter Inn, 1832, west of Lisbon

Guilford Lake State Park, west of Lisbon

Lisbon Historic District

Columbiana County Court House, Lisbon

Hanna-Kenty House, originally 1838, Lisbon